Alberta Ferretti

It was a new chapter for Alberta Ferretti who had chosen to pare back her collection and take inspiration from the 90s. The opening looks were a series of black swimsuits and bikinis, minimal aside from a cut-out in the back or strings wrapped around the waist. They couldn’t help but look striking as they were worn by Joan Smalls, Gigi Hadid and Karlie Kloss.

No 21

Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s signature ultra-feminine, lingerie-inspired silhouettes opened the show in delicate shades of pink and nude, dotted with touches of sparkle and accented with fragile-looking feathers. The sporty edge came with the addition of leather parkas layered on top and hoodies trimmed with crystals.

Photo: Paola Mombrini/REX/Shutterstock

Max Mara

The early morning sun creeping into the cloistered venue for the Max Mara show created the perfect light to show off the transparency of the slim-cut organza tailoring, revealing the layers underneath. The collection felt graphic and light – sharp jumpsuits were followed by maxi skirts spliced into strips of fabric and worn with neat knitwear that moved with the models, creating a breezy, carefree feel.

Versace

This show marked the 20th anniversary of Gianni Versace’s death. Donatella’s show was a homage to her brother, pulling from his archive key prints from 1991-1995, shown in capsule print collections on the catwalk. Donatella reinterpreted the iconic leggings, blouses, square shouldered jackets and catsuits, with Kaia Gerber modelling the print her mother Cindy Crawford wore in the 90s.

Photo: Carlo Scarpato/PR

Moschino

Jeremy Scott is on a roll, after celebrating the 20th anniversary of his own label, Scott pushed the bar on his creativity at Moschino. As the show notes read “Florals? They’ve never bloomed with so much boom!” But before the flowers came the ballet – the “biker ballet”, this ballerina is tough. Scott opened with Kaia Gerber in a pale blue tutu, biker jacket, hat and boots.